Monday, March 28, 2011

Preparations for Framing

Preparations for framing may seem an intuitive topic. Yet a mistake here can mean hours of trouble down the line. A wrong measurement can mean disassembly of the frame. A misjudgement in the number of studs can mean an extra trip to the lumber yard. Like most other things in life a bit of forethought can make things a lot easier.
First, of course, you will want to figure out where your new wall will be positioned. If possible, try to butt it up against a stud in the wall and make it perpendicular to ceiling joists. If moving your wall a few inches either way makes no difference to your project, accommodating your current structure may make your job simpler. To find out where studs and ceiling joist run in your walls and ceiling you will want to employ a studfinder.

Next remove any molding that might be in your way. Using a hammer and a prybar and perhaps some shims, carefully pry the old molding away from the wall. Molding is generally easy to crack or break so take your time with this operation, especially if you plan on reusing the molding. As accommodating existing structures is not always feasible, you may have to tear through existing drywall to provide support. Cut out the drywall between studs (or ceiling joists) using a keyhole saw (if you want to take your time about it) or a sawsall. Be careful about cutting through electrical wiring or pipes. Your studfinder and a bit of common sense will help you locate these obstructions.
Measure the distance between studs or joists and then cut four or five pieces of 2X4 to that length. Wedge the pieces in and then toenail them to the studs or joists. Toe-nailing is simply nailing at 45 to 60 degree angle through the brace and into the stud. This can be made easier by pre-drilling the holes slightly smaller than the nails you use. (Nails should be 10D).
Now you are ready for some precise measuring. You should measure the width and height of the frame of the wall you expect to put into place

WHAT TYPE TIMBER???
Your designer and builder should know the current timber treatment requirements for the various areas in a house. But if you are doing some alterations and purchasing the timber yourself, make sure you buy the timber treated to the right standard for the situation. For example, framing for enclosed decks and balconies requires a higher treatment level than other wall framing.
You can find out about timber durability requirements in Paragraph 3.2 ‘Timber’ of Acceptable Solution B2/AS1, supporting Clause B2 ‘Durability’ of the Building Code. This Acceptable Solution requires designers and builders to follow the requirements in NZS 3602:2003 Timber and Wood-based Products for use in buildings.
NZS 3602 requires treatment and identification of timber to be in accordance with a further New Zealand Standard - NZS 3640:2003 Chemical Preservation of Round and Sawn Timber. This Standard clarifies the identification system of the types of timber treatment by use of colour, branding and/or chemical testing

TYPES OF WALLFRAMING??? weight of drywall...load bearing wall...plumbing work...horizontal members..

COMPANIES THAT BUILD FRAMES IN NZ....BUILDINGEazy

WHAT TIMBER TREATMENT DO WE REQUIRE FOR OUR BOTTOM PLATES???H3.1

HOW MANY FRAMING MEMBERS CAN YOU NAME..???STUDS BOTTOM PLATES TOP PLATES NOGS BEARERS

28MARCH2011

NICK GAVE US LEADERS FOR OUR GROUPS RUBENA WAS OURS...RUBENA MEASURED AND MARKED OUT OUR JACK STUDS..MARK AND NATHAN CUT OUT OUR TIMBER FOR OUR JACK STUDS...WE USED STAINLESS STEEL NAILS TO NAIL OUR TO 2 TIMBERS TOGETHER(BEARERS)FOR THE BACK WALL JEREMY DID MOST OF THE NAILING....DANNY AND I PUT ON THE BRACES FOR THE JACK STUDS WITH RUBENA....RUBENA USED THE SPIPRIT LEVEL TO MAKE THEM STRAIGHT AND EVEN...NICK THEN SHOWED US THE NEXT STEP ON HOW TO PUT ON THE FLOOR...

MARCH262011

MARCH21 FIRST WE HAD TO LOCATE THE AREA WE WERE GOEN TO WORK IN..THEN WE SET OUT OUR PROFILES....NICK SHOWED US HOW TO MAKE THEM STRAIGHT USING THE SPIRIT LEVEL...WE USED THE HILTY TO NAIL TIMBER INTO THE CONCERT(GROUND PLATES) NICK TAUGHT US THAT PROFILES ARE USED FOR LOCATING THE HEIGHT OF THE BUILDING..

Monday, March 21, 2011

MARCH212011

THIS DAY WE DID OUR SAW STOOLS...FINSHING IT OFF...I USED THE BELTSANDER ON THE TOP AND SANDED THE REST...I PUT IN MY BRACES TOO...PRETTY TRICKY BECAUSE I KEPT PLANING THE ENDS OF AND CAUSING IT TO CHIP,,,MAKING IT UGLY...I CUT OUT THE END OF MY LEGS TOO...HAD TO USE THE BIG SQUARE TO DO THAT...CUT MY LEGS OUT TO ANGLE...THEN SANDED THE BOTTOM...AFTER WE BACK TO THE ROOM..AND CALCULATED HOW MUCH TIMBER WE WOULD NEED FOR OUR PROJECT...

SAW STOOLS

LEGS...TO FIT THE LEGS INTO THE HOUSING..YOU MUST CHECK THE HOUSING TO SEE IF THERE WILL BE ANY THING BLOCKING IT FROM GOING IN LIKE BITS OF TIMBER YOU MAY HAVE ON THE SIDES...YOU MUST CUT YOUR LEGS TO THE CORRECT ANGLE...THEN PUT GLUE ON IT AND NAIL IT IN............

STEPS TO CUTTING THE LEGS TO SIZE...1ST YOU GOT TO MARK OUT YOUR ANGLE CUT 3MMS AWAY FROM IT AND THEN PLANE TILL IT IS FLUSH OR GOOD ENOUGH 4 YOU..

CLEATS...MARK YHE TIMBER USING THE OUTSIDE PARTS OF THE LEGS...CUT 3MMS AWAY FROM THE LINE...THEN PLANE UP TOWARDS THE LINE...TRICKS NOT TO SPLIT THE ENDS...PLANE UP TO THE MIDDLE THEN COME FROM THE OTHER SIDE AND PLANE...

BRACES..........FIRST YOU GOT MARK OUT THE MIDDLE USING THE BRACE AND A RULER...THEN GET YOUR ANGLE USING THE SLIDING BEVEL...CUT 2MMS AWAY FROM THE LINE THEN PLANE TOWARDS THE LINE..KEEP CHECKING IF THE ANGLE IS CORRECT...WHAT WAS TRICKING TO ME ...USE THE PLANE ON IT..USING IT TO GET THE CORRECT ANGLE..I KEPT CHIPPING YHE ENDS OF....TOOLS I USED ON THE BRACES..SAW,RULER,PLANER AND SLIDING BEVEL..........

FINISHING...........I USED A BELT SANDER ON THE TOP AND SANDED ALL PENCIL MARKINGS...

Monday, March 14, 2011

PROJECTX

Framing member	Finish size	No.	length	total
Top bearer	90x45	2	0.82m	1.64m
Seat bearer	90x45	2	1.36m	2.72m
Top slats	90x45	9	1.5m	13.5m
Bottom slats	90x45	6	1.5m	9m
legs	90x45	4	0.9m	3.6m
braces	90x45	2	0.9m	1.8m
			Total net;	32.26m
		Add wastage	32.26x1.10	35.49
		Find cost	35.49x$3.30	$117.12
		Add gst	$117.12x1.15	$134.69

Date	Record of work undertaken	Submitted/Date
5/04/2011	we put some nogs into the floor and nick shows showed us the safety tips on electric planer we used the planer..we in the computer after lunch....nicks showen us how to make a cutting list on micro soft publisher..after lunch we back in the computer room duen our blogs again
06/04/2011	layed out perforated underfloor and measured .cut and nailed floor boards then we put up all 4 walls and braced it to keep it plumb
11/04/2011	measured and cut out more nogs for frames and put in more studs.we put up a scaffholding. got the walls plumbed agen and rebraced 4 walls.we did some chiselen to fit metal plates in.these metal plates are used to hold the walls down so that the wind can not move it or get it out of place.
12/04/2011	We put up our rafters and perlins today.
9/05/2011	we put up scaffholds to suround the building..it took us more then 2 hours to up..we started on our roof..i put blue screws into the perlins..
10/05/2011	we put the sheets,cavity batterns on today took us nearly the hole day..putting on the sheet for the house was pretty hard because there was just two of us doing it..sione and myself nearly had to do the hole thing we got nathan to help us out..got him to cut out cavity batterns for us and we nailed it in and we had computers on the last block..in there we just did most our blogs and watched heaps of youtube.hahahhaaaa
11/05/2011	in the morning we are on the computers..nick and jared is given us tips on the test we have next week after first break we went back to the work shop to work on our tool box we wanted to go outside but the weather was not any good at all..it was striaght boren doen the ttol box ..i told nick im goen get my measurement for my drawing..i stayed out there till course was finished
9/03/2011	we started our saw stools nick was showen us how to measure and cut the pieces out..we used the buzzer and thicknesser..nick showed us how to use it and the safety rules wen using these tools
16/05/2011	I had to put more nogs on for the fibre cement whether boards because it was to short and if you went to nail the soffit it will not hit anything. i also glued my tool box togeather an sash claped it togeather to make it tight..i put more building wrap and nailed it in..i put more cavity batterns in..
17/05/2011	rubena,jeremy and myself put up fibre cement whether boards up today nick showed us how to cut it.
18/05/2011	i put my sides on for my tool box an nailed blocks into the ends of the tool box..we had to first see if the sides were striaght using the try square then glue the side boards on and see if they were flush.had to glue then nail it using the smallest nails..

...JERY AT M.I.T..

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