BUILDING PROJECT

http://teamnick111c.wikispaces.com/file/view/MIT+Project+Building+-+Rev+02.pdf

PROJECT NON CONSENTED BUILDING

1. WHAT SIZE CAN WE BUILD....... The number of new dwelling consents authorised in January was down 17% from the same month a year ago, although seasonally adjusted figures show there was a 10% rebound from December, Statistics New Zealand said.
   There were 867 consents for new dwellings during the month, down from 1,042 in January 2010. Of that, 90 were consents for apartment units (up from 42 in Jan 2010), while 777 were for other dwellings (down from 1,000).
   Seasonally adjusted, there were 1,126 dwelling consents during the month, up from 1,027 in December. The trend in consents, which is based on seasonally adjusted numbers, remained negative in January and has been falling since May 2010. However the negative trend has been easing since August 2010.
2. TYPES OF FOUNDATIONS......House foundations vary enormously from one part of the country to the other. There are three major types of foundations that are used when building a home. In much of the south, the most common type of foundation is the slab on grade. Another common type of foundation is the pier and beam and the third most common is basement or t-shaped, which is found in more Northern areas
3. TYPES OF WALL FRAMING USING NZ TIMBER GUIDEForest Research in 1974 is briefly explained.
   
   Comparisons are made under the following headings volume of timber used; no of nails used; no of cuts made;
   ability of walls to support sheet materials. It also briefly looks at the stance of NZS 3604 on the requirement of
   nogs and also the maximum stud heights allowed. NZS 3604 have taken into account typical combinations of
   vertical and horizontal loads on house framing.
   The specifications in the Winstones Gib Board Manual are considered.
   A previous article on this subject by the
   If there are no disadvantages in using studs at 400c/c without nogs then perhaps we should seriously study this
   subject further to increase the viability and efficiency of using timber framing.....
4. TYPES OF CLADDING AVALABLE IN NZ......
   
   • Brick or masonry veneer – it may have a higher initial cost but the advantage is that it requires virtually no maintenance.
   • Autoclaved aerated concrete which has good insulation properties and comes in blocks, reinforced panels, and lintels. Note: not all products are accepted by some BCAs - check before specifying.
   • Weatherboards which can be made of timber or from composite materials. Some do not need painting. They have very good weathertightness properties. Depending on the weather tightness risk score a cavity may be required behind the weatherboard.
   • Monolithic systems - for example, textured wall surfaces made out of plaster, polystyrene or fibre cement sheet - are promoted as providing a sealed and waterproof outer skin but must be installed strictly to manufacturer's instructions. The waterproof coating must be carefully maintained to ensure watertightness, and will require a cavity in most applications.
   • Aluminium, for example, extruded aluminium weatherboard.
   • Profiled metal. This requires careful detailing and workmanship.
   • Plywood sheet.
   • Concrete masonry blocks - they don't rot, can provide good heat storage, but they need to be installed correctly. Note: in some areas additional thermal insulation may be needed. All single skin masonry will require the application of a waterproof coating.
   .

name and explain three types of handsaws

• TIMBER AND LOG SAW....Perfect for timber framing, log building, or any heavy cutting job. Use the starting teeth to introduce a kerf, then the 3 TPI main teeth, which cut on both the push and pull stroke, to quickly slice through the toughest jobs....

HACKSAW.....

Hacksaws are usually used for cutting metal. however they are also very handy for cutting dowels and thin wood strips.

 

The blades are easily interchangable, the thinner the material the finer the blade should be, a rule of thumb is that three teeth should be on the material at all times.

 

Hold the material being cut in a vise positioned so that the cut is close to the edge of the jaws, use slow strokes (60 per minute) with not too much downward pressure.

 

If a blade is changed in the middle of a cut reverse the material and cut from the other side toward the orginal cut. A new blade will have more set than a used blade and will be ruined if cut is continued............

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Handsaws are available in many sizes and configurations, a good general purpose saw is 26" long and has 8 teeth per inch. Crosscut saws (to cut across the grain) have teeth with a negative rake, ripping saws (to cut in the direction of the grain) have a zero rake

what is the use of the (hardback) tenon saw

A tenon saw is a type of backsaw, or a hand saw that makes use of a stiffened edge to give stability to the blade while it's cutting. The stiffened edge may be made of metal or wood and also give the blade weight. The tenon saw is the most commonly used of the backsaws.
Some types of tenon saw are designed to cut primarily with the grain; the teeth are rip filed, which works well for the type of work required to cut tenons. Others, which have crosscut filed teeth, can be used to cut against the grain. Tenon saws usually have between 10 and 13 teeth per 1 inch (2.54 cm) of blade. Most tenon saws have closed handles, although some smaller ones may have open or "pistol grip" handles.

what is the function of the combination square....

A combination square is used in woodworking to help achieve the angles necessary to complete the project. A combination square is typically used for framing houses or in small woodworking projects, such as cabinets and dressers. There are several different types of squares available for woodworking, such as the framing square, try square, and precision steel square, but the combination square is the most popular and is generally considered to be the most useful

MARCH142011

THIS DAY I WAS FINISHING OF MY SAW STOOL...I HAVE NOT PUT ON THE LEGS YET BUT I HAVE FINSHED CHISELING THE GAPS FOR THE LEGS TO FIT IN....NICK SHOWED ME A TIP ON HOW TO KEEP MY LINES STRAIGHT USING A TIMBER...HE NAILED A PIECE OF TIMER FLUSH WITH THE LINE AND SHOWED ME HOW TO CHISEL OF PARTS I DIDNT NEED PROPLEY .....WE ALSO RESUMED OUR WORK FOR THE POSTERS WE STARTED LAST WEEK.. SUNNY,DANNY AND MYSELF HAVE DRAWED TWO PICTURES OF TIMBER ON IT AND THE TITTLE TIMBER TREATMENT...SUNNYS GETTING US SOME PICTURES TO PUT ON IT...

POINTS TO CONSIDER

• INDENITFY BOUNDRY LINES/where you are building/plans/datum/
• DETERMINE GROUND CONDITIONS/FOUNDATIONS/foundations/contours quantities/soil removal
• CHECK FOR SERVICES/telephone/not sure contact service providers
• vertify location of building
• SET OUT PROFILES ,BRACE MARK BUILDING LINES/on batter boards
• CHECK LINES ARE RIGHT/angle...345
• CHECK FOR CORRECT DIMENSIONS,SQUARE,LEVEL/use of diagonals to check if it is square...
• MARK BUIL;DING LINES ON THE GROUND...